Introduction
Situated on the border of Guangxi, Guizhou and Hunan provinces, Sanjiang is a small city by Chinese standards with a population of 338,000. It is considered the centre of the Dong minority group, who make up 56% of the local population.
The best way to experience the culture of this area is to get out of the city and head for the hills. Chengyang is the best base for exploration. It is made up of 8 different villages, however Ma'an is the only village that offers guesthouse accommodation. From here, you can take day hikes out to the other villages or catch local buses or pedicabs along the main road. The markets in this area run on a five day cycle and locals will let you know where to find them. If you're feeling lazy, Chengyang is also a great place to kick back and relax, sit down by the river with a good book, listen to the ancient waterwheels and soak up the beautiful surroundings.
The Dong people living in this remote mountain region have preserved their culture well. The architecture remains traditional: the houses are wooden and built in a unique Dong style, and in the villages are dotted with drum towers and ˇ°wind and rainˇ± bridges. If you eat with local families, you can taste Dong specialties such as sour fish and pickled pork, and sip locally brewed rice wine. At night, you can enjoy song and dance performances by the townspeople in their traditional costumes.
Dong people are famous for their singing. Since the Dong minority didn't have a writing system of their own until 1958, their history and stories were all recorded and passed down through songs. The most popular form of song is the 'grand song' which contains various themes ranging from love stories to historical events to moral lessons. These are all performed by a chorus, and the formal performing place is the village drum-tower. Any visitor to the area should make sure they experience a "grand song" performance to fully appreciate the depth and beauty of the local Dong culture. |
