The Yarlung Tsangpo is one of the most important rivers in China, with water reserves that rank second in China. In the heart of the Yarlung Tsangpo Grand Canyon, along the 20-kilometer uninhabited section between Shishing La to where the river is joined by the Parlun8 Tsangpo, there are many U-turns and steep cliffs. Four waterfalls represented by the Tsangpo Badong have been discovered here. For so many majestic waterfalls occur along such a short but zigzag stretch of river is not only unique in China but a rare phenomenon anywhere. The Tsangpo Badong Waterfalls are the most spectacular, primitive and mysterious waterfalls in China.

In October l 998. I led the first team of the Yarlung Tsangpo Grand Canyon science group, trekking for some 20 days from Pai Township in Menling County, along the Yarlung Tsangpo River towards its lower reaches, climbing over the Shishing La Pass and finally reaching the foot of the Tsangpo Badong Waterfalls on the mainstream of the Yarlung Tsangpo. My heart quaked at the sight of these wild falls slamming into the river from a 35-meter steep cliff at a rate of l,900 cubic meters per second.

The Yarlung Tsangpo has a total length of 2,840 kilometers and is the 23rd longest river in the world. In terms of flow. it ranks seventh-16,290 cubic meters per second, as much as 76,600 cubic meters per second at its largest flood flow, ranking in the world. It starts in the Gyima Yamzoin Glacier on the north of the Himalayas meanders along the Himalayas from west to east before meeting the foot of Namjagbarwa (782 meters) main peak of the eastern Himalayas. It's way is blocked by Gyalabele (7,294 meters) snow mountain-then it pushes its way through the gap between the two mountains. ln so doing it forms the precipitous Dorje Pagmo Valley east of Gyalabele. This mysterious valley, situated in the west of the Yarlung Tsanpo Grand Canyon, is home to four great waterfalls: Tsangpo Bodong, Tsatan Muni, Chokor Tolang and Rongdrak waterfalls. The most spectacular in the Tsangpo Badong Waterfall at the entrance of the Dorje Pagmo Valley.

On November l 6,1998, when we crossed The Shishing La Pass and peered down over the Yarlung Tsangpo River from a height of 3,000 meters, our eyes beheld a wonderful sight: here the Yarlung Tsangpo River turns north and its 200-meter breadth is suddenly squeezed to some 100 meters. The roaring river surges and rolls with white billows into the Dorje Pagmo Valley. and crashes against a section of 30-odd-meter-high bedrock. Packing a punch of several thousand tons of water per second it flies down from the bedrock like a maddened wild horse. smashing down at the foot of the Cliff and splashing water everywhere.

Clouds of white mist rose from the river up to where we stood. Seen from above. the whole river looked like a long white belt and seemed that the steep cliffs on both river banks were collapsing. As the river continues down, it encounters another steep cliff, SO it has to swerve left and push its way through an even narrower passage before vanishing behind the cliff. This is the Tsangpo Badong Waterfalls. In fact it is a cluster of three waterfalls. The first waterfall at the upper reaches is the Tsangpo Badong Waterfall with a width of 117.7 meters and a headfall of 33 meters. The second is Bailang(White Wavel Waterfall which measures 62 meters across. Its headfall of 35 meters is the biggest of any waterfall found so far on the mainstream of the Yarlung Tsangpo. The width and headfall of Tsangpo Badong Number 3 Waterfall are relatively small.

But, it's not easy to get close to and unveil the mysterious Tsangpo Badong Waterfall. To do so we had to trek for two days in the unending primeval forest. Finally, after hacking through the thick branches on a cliff edge, the Tsangpo Badong Waterfalls appeared before us. Between the an host perpendicular banks stood a 33-meter-high cliff, with a huge rock towering on the east side and splitting the river into two flows, which, colliding and clashing with each other, made a thundering sound as they flooded down. At times, the sunlight hit the river, immediately creating a rainbow across it. Although it was dry season at the time, the river flow was still enormous. We could tell by the watermark that during the summer flood season, the river could submerge the entire bedrock and the head fall can be as much as 40 meters. Just imagine that power!

Once past the falls the Yarlong Tsangpo continues to surge down. At the backwater at the foot of the western bank, are several huge craters formed by the grinding of huge. sandstones driven by the power of the torrential current. Finally, the river water crashes into the wall of the bedrock, launching itself from the 65-meter-wide£¬35-meter-deep second stair on the west side, and creating the Bailang Waterfall. This, the most splendid waterfall on the mainstream of the Yarlung Tsangpo River, is also the most mysterious waterfall in the world--no one had ever caught a panoramic view of it, apart from the photographer who was shooting from a helicopter.

The Bailang Waterfall hides beneath a steep slope, the bedrock, which was once the Yarlung Tsangpo riverbed, abandoned when the river cut its way around the side. Standing on this smooth rock, we saw water vapor rising up and heard a thundering roar but saw no waterfall. In order to  photograph the waterfall, our photographers had to be lowered by rope with the help of the mountaineer members of the team. Protected with ropes.

I approached the edge of the rock and peered down at the Bailang Waterfall. Sticking out my head, 1 was amazed by the flying waterfall below. From down below on the west side of the bedrock, the river launches itself forward, then hurtles down, disappearing into the abyss of the canyon. White water vapor rises from the bottom of the canyon like a mushroom cloud after an atomic explosion, and then disperses above the canyon.

At this point, the Chushur-Tsethang section of the Yarlung Tsangpo River suddenly appeared in front of my eyes. There the Yarlung Tsangpo river valley broadens out to between six and eight kilometers wide. There are many river lets running in the valley and it is impossible to tell which is the mainstream. Leather boats are floating down with the current. During the flood season. the river is like a vast lake. The Tibetan people dig channels from the riverside, taking its water into their fields and forest. The Yarlung Tsangpo is so tranquil there. But here what we saw was a wild torrent!

Standing on the smooth rock riverbed, I listened to the roar of the river, smelled its scent permeating the air my body quivering with the canyon and river. There and then I clearly understood what kind of waterfall is the most  beautiful-a waterfall with all the power of a thunderbolt. Why Because it is the true embodiment of nature's might and majesty, awe-inspiring and stirring, and makes human beings more rational.