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| Sheer cliffs flank the gorge. the swiftly rushing river seeks a way out, its rolling waves roaring like thunder, spray flying in all directions-a soul-stirring, breath-taking scene. | Hutiao(Tiger-Leaping)Gorge is inter-nationally famous, far better known in the world than the province in which it is located. Many people abroad have not heard of Yunnan Province, but they have heard of Hutiao Gorge.
This great gorge inspires awe and nobility of spirit. I have walked here many times
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| Scenic Splendor of China. | but what impressed me most was my experience two summers ago, when I walked through the gorge in intermittent heavy rain for over 20 kilometers.
I drove out from Shangri-La and as we were about to enter the gorge, suddenly the terrain opened out. I could see the Yulong(Jade Dragon) and the Haba snow mountains, that originally had looked like a single whole, now standing apart 1ike a pair of huge curtains drawn open, their sheer faces opposing each other across an expanse of the cloudy sky. Such a soul-stirring scene! I seemed to hear the sounds of hundreds of thousands of years before, when the earth drew back on both two sides. the thunder of mud, sand. colossal rocks and mighty torrents coming rolling down. The entrance to the gorge was all turmoil and action, whilst the Jinsha River hidden far below kept silent. All this was for the Jinsha Rivet.
The average elevation of the J
insha River inside Hutiao Gorge is l,630 meters above sea 1evel. and its bank is 3,733 meters at the highest point. a difference of over 2,100 meters. The gorge consists of upper, middle and lower sections. Our cross-country vehicle advanced along the road beside the gorgesa dangerous road with white and yellow fallen rocks scattered everywhere. The great change process that started in remote antiquity was still continuing. Suddenly, the road ahead was blocked by a flood from the Haba Snow Mountain that had deposited several huge rocks on the road. Most of the road was under water.
I decided immediately to get out and walk through Hutiao Gorge. I crossed the torrent and started walking. Landslips continued here and there, giving off the fresh smell of stones. Black clouds blotted out the sky, making it dim in the gorge, and then another rainstorm caught me, drenching me from top to toe. After walking a few kilometers in the rain, it stopped, and the gorge was restored to its original tranquility. Then suddenly I heard noises above and spotted lots of rocks and stones, big and small, jumping after each other like footballs and rolling into the Jinsha River several hundred meters ahead of me.
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| Scenic Splendor of China. | The gorge was full of hidden danger. Not knowing when more rocks would roll down, I was quite edgy and walked quickly, away from danger,'as if being pursued by those rocks. About two hours later(I can't be more precise since I lost all sense of time in the gorge and was just aware that it was getting darker), I reached the Hutiao Gorge Scenic Area. This 28-kilometer-long stretch is the major tourist area with the famous Tiger-Leaping Rock below. Although I was exhausted, the sound of hundreds of tigers roaring below me revived me. It was raining again, and Tiger-Leaping Rock was submerged. I stood by the mighty torrent, its vapors surging upward and I dared not get too close. I could see that the Jinsha River was as; smooth as a mirror upstream but when it reached Tiger-Leaping Rock, the mighty river suddenly fell, exploded, fragmented, and gushed out.
It seemed that what had been pent up for a long time was suddenly erupting, several currents were surging, rushing and roaring like crazy tongues or banners fluttering in the wind. I shivered and drew back, for fear that those tigers would suddenly turn on me. Back on the road, I felt the peace of heart that had experienced great sadness or happiness. "I have been to Hutiao Gorge. and I am no longer who I was before: I become more open-minded. and my life is more natural. "Cultivating the mind and character, nourishing purity of spirit, and feeling at one with nature.... these things cannot be achieved in a study.
It was getting dark. A Naxi driver took me to Lijiang that same night. He drove in silence while I meditated in the dark interior. This experience made me understand the appeal of Chinese culture. The world of nature is a church of the Chinese spirit, from which great poets and artists derive their understanding of life and draw their
creative inspiration, and which in turn becomes their masterpiece works. In this sense, Hutiao Gorge is a great Chinese church, like Notre Dame in Paris, a place where the heart and soul can rest. |
